On the road again

Apologies to all of our followers for our leave of absence – this was caused by a week off in Blenheim and then problems with wifi access at our hotel in Sydney. We will follow this blog shortly with our first Australian experiences.
The week’s R&R with Debbie, Mark & family in Blenheim seemed to fly by and we are now back in Auckland preparing for the flight to Oz. We had a lovely time relaxing, but we still seemed to do a lot. We packed in the Marlborough wine festival where we met their friends Liz and Chris. The next day, we had breakfast at the Farmer’s Market and met another neighbour Ann and her husband Steve. We drove all the way across the top of South Island to Nelson to visit a pub with real draught beer part owned by a golfing buddy, Bill Dover and run by his brother Mic (see picture). We also had a lovely lunch at the Slip Inn in Havelock (the Green Mussel capital of the world) with Debbie and her mother-in-law Carol and the four of us also had a most enjoyable time visiting wineries and lunching. On Saturday, we played golf with Mark and his eldest son James (see picture), who appears naturally gifted at golf and playing heavy metal rock guitar. The dogs, Flecka and Harley, kept us amused all week and we really enjoyed the fresh produce from Debbie’s garden. The only slight downside, again, was the weather. It was such a shame that it rained on Debbie’s birthday, although it didn’t spoil the visit to LochMare, on the Charlotte Sound, which is absolutely beautiful. Now that we have moved on we are sure that Mark’s 50th birthday on March 12th will be blessed by gloriously hot weather. The only one of Debbie’s family that we did not really get to see much of was Will, who went off for a three day camp with his school - a sort of bonding exercise - and on his return he was dog tired, only staying up until the chocolate cake was ready.
Our return to North Island across the Cook Strait was relatively calm even though the wind was very strong and the next day, we took a spectacular 12 hour rail journey on the Overlander (see picture), from Wellington to Auckland. We saw amazing scenery (see picture) that would not have been possible to view were we driving. The gorges, the rivers, the volcanoes (still active) and the bridges with amazing spiral climbing rail track were certainly worth the trip. Coming back to both Wellington and Auckland, two cities that we had only recently visited for the first time, reinforced the pleasing memories we had of them and although we only had a few hours in each, we still had time for a walk around the harbours in both places and enjoyed the leisure time so evidently treasured by the Kiwis and their many visitors.
Impressions of New Zealand: beautiful country with fascinating things to see and do; wonderful food and most of all friendly people. Whether Kiwi bred or immigrant, generally they are so proud of their country and eager to share their experience with the visitor. We can only speak of the Northland (North Island) but the lasting impression is the winding and steeply climbing roads, stunning trees & Maori art whether in wood carving, weaving or tattoos! Oh yes – and the wine was quite good too! (see picture)

Go South young man (and woman)

Well, we have arrived in South Island and just in time for the Marlborough Wine Festival, would you believe it? The crossing from Wellington was a piece of cake; the sea was like glass and the scenery going through the Sound towards Picton was spectacular (see picture). Niece Debbie and her mother-in-law Carol met us off the ferry and by the time we reached Blenheim, James and Will were cycling home from school and Mark was driving home from work. We were enthusiastically greeted by the two dogs, Flecka and Harley and it was not too long before I joined Mark, James and Will in the swimming pool. It was a bit fresh but it felt good in the late afternoon sunshine.
The next day, Saturday, was the day of the wine festival and we thought our reputation as rainmakers had preceded us. The festival had never been rained off, but at 10.30 a.m. you would not have bet that this year might be the first. Debbie and Mark’s neighbour, Chris, even went off to get ponchos for us. However, these were not needed and Linda went to the wine festival with her poncho, umbrella but no sun hat (mistake). I have never seen so many wine producers in one place at the same time, I was in heaven. There were lots of people all having fun (see picture) and the day turned out to be very sunny – not because of all the wine we tasted. Apart from wine and food, there was music during the day and we stayed on until past 6 o’clock when Gin Wigmore performed and she was really worth waiting for (one of NZ’s most exciting new artists for years, with a US recording contract). We left the festival feeling very happy (see picture of me with Linda and Debbie).
On Sunday, after a leisurely breakfast at the farmer’s market, the whole family drove to White’s Beach, a nice sandy cove, where we went into the sea (a little cold), played a little beach cricket (me) and walked around the rocks (Linda). Today, we went with Debbie to the Slip Inn at Havelock for a lovely seafood lunch and a sweet tasting Sav (Sauvignon Blanc to you and me).
It’s lovely to be with the Debbie and her family for the first time in 18 months, to enjoy their company, see their superb home and to eat the fresh fruit and veges growing in their expansive garden. We are now preparing to send some clothes home in order to lighten the load in our suitcases before returning to Auckland for our next journey to Australia.

To the end of North Island

As we drove away from Napier, we were left with the view that nobody actually lived there, which would explain why the restaurants closed at 9 o’clock. We drove through the next town, Hastings, which was similarly built in Art Deco style, was bigger than Napier and seemed to have a ‘real life’ feel about it.
On the road South, on the map, we saw an advert for Yummy Mummies cheesecakes at Woodville. Well, you would expect us to stop and taste them, wouldn’t you? We did, and they were fabulous (tell Pete and Brian to come quick).

Our next overnight stop was Martinborough, a small sleepy wine town whose town square is designed to reflect the Union Jack and where we found a lovely bed & breakfast hosted by David & Lorraine Murray. We drove to the very southern tip of North Island at Cape Palliser, where it was amazing to see around 60 or so brown fur seals (see picture) in their natural habitat, swimming in the sea and lazing on the rocks in the sun. This was very wild country with cliffs coming down to the sea, roads only partially sealed and hugging the coastline. We came across a 9 hole golf course, which had electric fences around the greens (just like Brora), but the greens were very rough (see picture) even though the club employed someone to cut the greens (?).
Before we left Martinborough, we had enough time to visit the golf course (see picture - note vineyards at the rear) (we will be arranging a golf tour, but beware Wednesday is Ladies day – suggest wine tour alternative) and tested the Palliser winerie before moving on to Wellington, where we chatted with the manager, Narida, who will be coming to the UK in June and we hope to see her again.

We were able to put some extra detail to the Palliser name for their brochure. Admiral Palliser was Lord of the Admiralty and was responsible for sending Captain James Cook on his journeys. We also pointed out that there is a monument to Captain Cook in the grounds of the Vache, a large house in Chalfont St Giles, which was formerly owned by Admiral Palliser.
The road to Wellington was very twisty as it went across another mountain range (as high as Ben Nevis). In Wellington, we found a lovely hotel located right on the bay with splendid views. However, the weather in Wellington was dull, with lots of low cloud so the views were not always viewable (shades of Ireland – Jim). Nevertheless, we found some good nightlife and can recommend the Hummingbird restaurant and Sweet Mother's Kitchen. Today, we did a half day tour, rode the cable car (see picture) and Linda bought 3 more pairs of shoes – yes, that’s right 3 pairs!! That makes a total of 6 pairs this trip and we are not even half way yet! We will have to send more stuff home when we get to Blenheim.

From Rotorua to Napier

Its the evening of Thurs 4th and more culture with an excellent Maori traditional meal cooked in the ground (hangi) with show and then a walk through the forest to see the kiwis (hiding in the bushes not like the big Kiwis kicking rugby balls everywhere). Friday - more Maori culture but this time to see carving and weaving schools and geysers etc. Weather wonderful! Saturday almost cultured out but a visit to Wai-O-Tapu (see picture and try to spot Linda) on the road to Taupo was stunning with the geyser, mud pools and many coloured landscape. Then a quick stop at Haku Falls (see picture) to see the georgeous blue waterfall – would love to have had the time to go upstream in a jet boat but onward to Taupo – a lake that thinks its a sea its so big. We had a lovely visit with Nicola, Steve and Taz and we all went out for dinner. So weird to think we haven’t see them for more than 10 years. Great to hear their interpretation of life in NZ and meet their gorgeous daughter.
From Taupo to Napier we drove over the mountain plateau on a road that was closed by mud slides only a week ago (and is the longest road in NZ between petrol stations which we only discovered once we were on it! A little warning would have been good but we were ok just breathing fast by the time we reached the gas station.) As we are not staying here very long we have had to work hard at the tourist bit so checked into a motel (fawlty towers by the sea/don’t ask) and set off to Cape Kidnappers for a tractor (yes tractor) ride 9 km along the beach at low tide (see picture) to climb a very high cliff to see (and smell - just like a chicken farm) a gannet colony (see picture). Great experience if a little damp around the toes when we got stuck in the soft sand and it was everybody off while the driver did his drag racing exhibition to pull the trailer clear. Back in town by 9 pm, hungry and a little cold only to discover this town closes early!! Eventually found an excellent Asian restaurant which stayed open extra late – till 9.30pm!
Have you heard the one about the Maori chief, taken to the UK to be shown off in 1851; he was taken to St Andrews and shown this crazy game of golf? He loved it, played it well and came home and built a beautiful golf course at Napier.
Well, its 5pm on Monday, and we have discovered Napier is a magical town – rebuilt after an earthquake in 1931 in the art deco style. Natalie would love it here – all the buildings and some of the guides are exactly as they would have been in 1930/1940. To finish off the Hawkes Bay experience we realised we needed to have some NZ wine so we have been on a wine tour. David is recovering in the spa pool in our room!! (no pictures)

Where every day is a New (Zealand) experience

We encountered more bad weather on our drive to the Coromandel Peninsular and so we didn’t stay at Whitianga as planned, a decision confirmed when the tourist office advised it was too rough for the boats to go out. So we drove south, for an overnight stop at Tauranga and then on to Rotorua. Originally, we had only planned to stay 2 nights in Rotorua, but we are staying 4 nights because this place is so special.
On our journey between Tauranga and Rotorua, we stopped off at Matamata, where the Hobbiton part of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed. This was really Hollywood New Zealand style as the local scenery was turned into Hobbit homes cut into the hills (see picture) with bridges made from polystyrene. The tour also included a sheep shearing demonstration and a lamb feeding opportunity (see picture).
At Rotorua, we found superb accommodation in a small cottage and we immersed ourselves in the local volcanic culture by visiting a buried village (from the earthquake in 1886) and a visit to the Polynesian Spa where we both had wonderfully relaxing massages as well as bathing in the geo-thermal pools (temperatures ranging from 36C to 42C) (see picture). We also had an adventure eating out last night at a ’Stone Grill’ restaurant where you cook your food on a volcanic granite slab heated to 400C (see picture and note Linda’s new hair style). More Maori culture to follow.

Tourists in Northland

Thurs 28th up for 6.30 breakfast! Down the mountain goat road for the dolphin swim boat. Cruised this amazing sea of islands for 4 hours and we saw the dolphins (leaping and playing just like the movies) but it was too choppy to swim. Those who know me will understand the idea of me ON the water is stunning but it was so interesting (and pills/travel bands helped!). Left boat at Russell, the original ‘hell on earth’ because of the sailors drinking and ‘wenching’ and toured around the old wooden houses etc. A feeling of quiet gentility these days but great ice cream. Ferry back/change/dinner out. Every time we walk in the door at night John (our host) offers us drinks and then we sit chatting for an hour or so. It feels as if we are staying with friends.

Fri 29th 6.15 breakfast (the penalty of being a good tourist!). Coach tour day – very comfortable with scenic windows. Visited a ‘gumdiggers’ site where amber was ‘mined’ i.e. dug up from under the living forest. Then onto Cape Reinga the northern most tip of NZ where the Pacific meets the Tasman Sea. Walked out to the lighthouse and we were only 18,000 or so km to London. David planted a tree at S-34.43044/E-172.68195 ! Next, the sand dunes 300ft high where our fellow travellers sand boarded down while we watched before driving ON 90 mile beach with a quick toe dip in the water. Saw a staircase carved inside a Kauri tree and ate fish & chips out of paper but What was the fish?

Sat 30th A lazy day breakfast 8.30. John makes a mean scrambled egg and Audrey’s fruit concoctions are delicious. Wonderful visit to the Waitangi Treaty grounds and saw a Maori wedding at the most beautiful location. Visited our hosts golf club (needs water). Back to the Treaty grounds in the evening for dinner and show – show was poor but dinner (lamb) was wonderful.

Sun 31st Thanks Rita – went to see the Hunterwasser toilets in Kawakawa – he must have visited Barcelona or studied Gaudi – before crossing East to West and driving down the Tasman Sea coast. More green but not much softer and just as winding. Stopped over night at a beachfront motel in Orewa. Breezy but nice.

Mon 1st – what happened? Torrential rain, black sky and windy. We left.