Last stop Dubai

Well, here we are, 67 days after we started and packing for the trip home tomorrow. Dubai has been interesting – make of that comment what you will. Our hotel, the Qamardeen situated in the old town, has been very comfortable and we have enjoyed the lovely warm swimming pool and the friendliness of the staff. The old town is actually very new (only a few months old), but it is close to the Burj Al Khalifa – the highest building in Dubai, if not the world, where the musical fountains in the lake surrounding the area even outdo those at the Bellagio in Las Vegas (see pic). We have done things that locals don’t do – we have walked! We visited the Souk Al Bahar (also very new) as well as the Dubai Mall, which has an ice rink and an aquarium inside. However, we did not visit the Emirates Mall, which has a ski slope inside. Sue and John Brown’s daughter, Nicola (Nooze to those that know her), gave us a lovely tour around Dubai, showing us the real old town of Dubai built around the creek (see pic) and then she took us to the new Dubai, out to the Palm development and the Atlantis hotel. It is amazing what can be built given the resources (people and money), but Dubai still largely resembles a building site - a large part of which is on standstill due to the need to focus on the main projects (Metro) and the continuing impact of the financial recession.
Today has been our most hectic day. We began by teeing off on the Ernie Els golf course (see pic) in Sports City, just before 8 o’clock. We were due to tee off at 7.30, but our taxi driver could not find the golf course, it is so new. The golf course reminded us of Alicante- anyone who was on the Brian Slocombe trip to Spain a few years back will know what we mean (think building sites and half completed houses surrounding the fairways). I played well and I am looking forward to helping the Club beat the Seniors (again) this coming Saturday.
From the outskirts of Dubai, we returned to the DIFC (Financial City which reminded us of a very large and opulent Canary Wharf) for lunch with a former colleague at Barclays, Khurram Jaffree. It was good to see him again, but, it was not long before we returned to the pool at our hotel for last minute tanning opportunities.
We have just returned from a lovely meal with Nooze and her husband, Mark (see pic) at Madinat in Jumeirah. Madinat is a combination of Souk, hotels and restaurants by a waterway where tourists can be conveyed by Abra (small ferries, similar to those on the creek). Such a wonderful evening. We ate Persian food and chatted under starlit skies. When may we do this in England? Maybe it will be a barbecue summer this year!
This is our last blog for this journey. It’s been a fabulous trip with many highs, many bonuses and only a few lows, mainly weather related. We would like to thank all of our faithful followers and all of you who checked in once in a while to see how we were doing. We look forward to catching up with you all very soon to share our stories and maybe even bore you with some of our pictures that didn’t make any of the blogs.
So, this is David and Linda signing off. We are due to arrive in the UK on Thursday 25th, British Airways willing.

Chinese Hong Kong

What a relief to fly into Hong Kong without the risk of collecting washing from the lines close to the aircraft wings which was the old airport approach. Now the drive from Lantau Island across to Kowloon and over the bridge to Hong Kong Island gives you a brief moment to appreciate the changes – this is Hong Kong 2010 and the proliferation of skyscrapers (see pic) always amazing is now stunning.
The competition for space is fierce but nothing is going to be built on the race track and that is where we headed on the first night. Happy Valley Race Course (see pic) is run by the H.K. Jockey Club as strictly as anything in the UK. We were welcomed as visitors and bought a ‘dinner ticket’ which gave us a table off the balcony and buffet dinner. Our luck for the evening was in our table company – real racing characters, one with excellent English, who showed us the ropes and was then really impressed when David turned HK$10 into HK$54 on the 1st race. On the other side were an Irishman and a Frenchman (wait for the joke) in H.K. to help rich Chinese Hong Kongers build a wine cellar! A great evening – win a little and don’t lose too much!
Next day we took the MTR to – Disneyland and from the parade (see pic) to the fireworks it was brilliant. The Chinese love children and have no problem (unlike the French at EuroDisney) in wishing you ‘Have a nice day’.
Friday it was a bus ride to Stanley Market, different routes there and back so we could see more of the other side of H.K. and its’ fabulous beaches. But we have realised that some of the things that were popular but not over touristy 25 years ago have possibly passed their best so we will not spoil the memory and go back but do things we have not done before.
That decision sent us to Macao. An hours’ ferry ride across the China Sea and into the delta of the Pearl River and a completely different China. The Portuguese influence is very visible in the architecture and the colours and more of the old streets have survived. We took a half day bus tour round the old city which enabled David to cement Anglo/Chinese relations (see pic) and out to see the incredible vast casinos being built by the Las Vegas owners. Having stopped to watch a wonderful Chinese Dragon dance, wondered through the old quarter and tasted the delicious Portuguese almond one bite cakes we didn’t feel the need to visit the MGM Grand or the Venetian having seen them in Vegas.
Our only regret was that we didn’t have time for a wander around Kowloon where memory says the best eating street is - but it is good to save something for next time.

Our last few days in Thailand

The pressure we felt from the political unrest in Thailand grew, imperceptibly at first, as we left Bangkok for Chiang Mai, but became stronger the nearer our departure date for Hong Kong less than a week later.
As we took the train from Bangkok on Friday, we knew that the Red Shirts (anti-government supporters of ousted premier Taksin Shinawatra) would be arriving that day and we were glad to be going to Chiang Mai. The target for the Red Shirts was the overthrow of the government and, somewhat naively, we hoped it would be over when we returned on Tuesday. Our initial two days at the Prince Khum Phaya Resort in Chiang Mai were blissful. There were hardly any other guests and so we received royal service from all of the staff. When we were not touring around northern Thailand, we took advantage of the resort’s excellent facilities. The arrival of the Korean film crew invaded our privacy a little, but they were a friendly crowd of people. When we returned from our trip to the far north, though, there was a distinct change of atmosphere. Senior military officials had arrived and senior ‘suits’ were in evidence, accompanied by their bodyguards. The next day, at breakfast, a hoard of people in ‘pink shirts’ (pro-government supporters) had arrived and the military and ‘suits’ were engaged in meetings, closely watched by their bodyguards. We were keenly scanning newspapers and television news bulletins for updated news on the political situation and what little we were seeing was unsettling, with the Red Shirts making ultimatums and vowing to spill their own blood in front of government offices in Bangkok.
Our return to Bangkok was not helped by the fact that having boarded the plane, it was then taken out of service and the flight was cancelled. This caused mayhem at the airport as passengers tried to change their flights. Because we had booked business class though after some uncertainty we were able to get on the next flight.
Back in Bangkok, we saw truck loads of army personnel accompanied with riot gear on the freeway back into town and there was a general feeling that the red shirts would not stand down, leaving the situation to escalate. The next morning, we took an early taxi to the airport. A previous demonstration had led to airports being closed. However, our flight left on time and we arrived safely in Hong Kong by mid afternoon.
There are no photographs to accompany this blog – none can adequately capture our mood. We left Bangkok in sadness. Sadness for a wonderful city and wonderful country that is in the midst of turmoil, which is unlikely to be resolved any time soon. Sadness, too, in the fact that Thailand’s plight goes virtually unnoticed in the UK and in Western press generally. But grateful that we had left as the area of our hotel was closed to traffic that afternoon as the Red Shirts did indeed invade the main road by our hotel.

Touring Northern Thailand

Elephants – Thai dancing -Mekong River – Laos – Burma okay so we must be good tourists and tear ourselves away from too much relaxing – elephants here we come. First impression, they are BIG. I know that is obvious but even the little ones are BIG and playful, gentle, clever and patient. It is the first time I have ridden an animal and not felt sorry for it only for us when the Mahout (driver/trainer/controller) got off on the middle of a jungle path to walk ahead and take photos of us alone on top of this giant animal! (see pic). That evening having reduced the reception staff to helpless laughter at the pictures of us on the elephant we went next door to a fabulous complex of dining/show rooms to the ‘cultural show’. Always a worry that it will be for the tourists this was laid to rest by the fact that a large contingent of Thai university students were there on their final fling before the holidays. We joined another English couple staying in our hotel which was very pleasant. An excellent evening of interesting food and traditional and modern dance & music show culminating in the traditional ‘get the audience on its feet’ section. David doing Thai dancing was a real treat (see pic) – is this the prelude to ballroom dance classes?
Next morning another earlyish start taking care we did not interfere with the Korean Television crew starting filming in the hotel grounds for a soap/reality TV show. First stop the Hot Springs, seriously underwhelming after New Zealand but they tried. However, the 2nd stop was very special. A pure white temple, whose first building was completed in 1996 by a famous Thai artist and his contemporaries and whose internal murals are still being painted depicting heaven – traditional Thai – and hell. 9/11, exploding bombs, spider man, etc.etc. Very thought provoking. Then through Chiang Rai to the MeKong river and the 3 borders of Thailand, Laos and Burma (Myanmar). As we stood on the banks of the river the appalling pollution caused by land burning was really evident as visibility was so poor. We took a longtail boat to see the casino (from the river) which Burma has built on the banks to tempt Thai people to go and spend their money. Then across to Laos, where we landed. A loose term to describe a bridge made of split bamboo and loose planks where the ‘railing’ switches from side to side at whim (see pic). Having safely negotiated this, you arrive at a very small market selling all the goods you see being sold around the world but which are made here! Back across the river for a Buffet lunch (emphasis please on the ‘t’) which was very good. Finally we reached the Thai/Burma border crossing which was fascinating when you consider the bad publicity in the West about Burma and here are both lots of people crossing backward and forward to shop and trade. For 500 Baht we could have gone into Burma but no-one fancied it. Every time there is a flare up of trouble in Burma the crossing closes but the children still swim in the river which is the border. A long drive back only stopping for ‘pee-pee’ stops or buy fresh pineapple from a road side stall which was the sweetest we had ever tasted.

North to Chiang Mai

Early start , with backpacks only, we took local transport to the main station to get our train to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Remembering to stand up at 08.00 when the National Anthem was played and everything stops, we boarded the train and found our airline style seats in the ‘luxury’ of the 2nd class air condition carriage. The next 12 hours were amazing. The country around Bangkok is incredibly flat and arable but anywhere there is a tall hill there is a golden Buddha , up high and tall enough to be seen for miles around. The variety of buildings – shanty to luxurious - seems to bear no relation to the wealth of the inhabitants since even the shantys have satellites and good quality cars and new motor bikes. Everywhere are the little stalls selling food and everything is clean. At Bangkok station the stall holders wash their dishes in the middle of the train tracks using the hose pipes there to wash the trains!! (see pic)
No tale we tell can avoid food and this is no exception. 2 hours into the journey and the first ‘service’ arrived, cold or hot drinks and a light sticky bun with jello inside. No conversation/no requests. 2 hours later more food – primitive airline container with delicious spicy chicken and rice – eat don’t ask was our motto having established it was at least chicken. The final offering was a feather light muffin style cake tasting of vanilla bean and custard(?). No money changed hands – it was all included. Ryanair take note. The landscape slowly changed through the 12 hour journey and the final couple of hours were through tropical light forest high hill regions. The amount of land burning throughout the journey was a shock and it was easy to see why the air quality is so poor and visibility can be severely affected.
However, finally we arrived at a station with no signs in English (it was Chiang Mai) and got conned into getting into a tut tut (having told us all taxis were tut tuts which was not true!) . Off we went to the wrong hotel and as we refused to get out the driver had to go into the hotel and use their computer to find our hotel. Eventually we arrived – at The Prince Khum Phaya Resort & Spa known to us as Shangri La. We ended up feeling sorry for the driver because the property is so new. The pool is the length of the accommodation area but shaped under bridges, around waterfalls etc etc and we have to step down from our patio to get in. (see pics). As I sit here on the patio in my swimsuit the sun is dipping behind the lana style roofs opposite with a temperature around 30C. Sorry folks!

Feeling the heat in Thailand

We left Sydney on a perfect day of clear blue skies and 29C temperature and flew to Bangkok. We arrived around 10.30 at night. It was 31C - Bangkok smelled hot and humid. After a good night sleep and a refreshing shower, we looked out of the window of our 15th floor room, yes it was raining but the skies also suggested Bangkok suffered from a mild smog. We were last in Bangkok on our honeymoon 25 years ago, but we did not really walk the streets then. This time we did and I felt that we were seeing something of the real Bangkok.
Our first mission was to shop! I must admit to succumbing to some Fluff tendencies – I wanted to shop! Linda wanted to have some clothes made and our concierge recommended us to a tailor in the most expensive district of Bangkok, but after the intervention of two separate Bangkok women (one a lawyer and the other who recognised us from our hotel), we were off by Tut Tut (see picture) to Brioni where we chose our material, selected our designs and were measured for our shirts and skirts (hers not mine). We followed this up by walking in considerable heat around workshops and market stalls to a large mall, the MBK where we were to have lunch in a Thai Food Centre (see picture). After initial confusion we became familiar with the system and chose our food – don’t ask me, I haven’t a clue what I selected, but it was hot spicy and extremely delicious- and cost less than £4 including drinks and a fresh mango dessert..
Back to the hotel, we had a swim in the pool and then got ready for our evening out with Jim and Judy’s son Richard and his girlfriend, Halomi. They took us to their favourite restaurant and it was quite different to be eating at tables on a glass floor where fish swam underneath – Linda did really well - she did not even need her travel bands. The food was delicious and the conversation went into the night. We only left when the restaurant turned the lights out. Although the restaurant had closed, Bangkok was still open on its night time shift and showed no signs of closing up. But we went back to our hotel, we had to get ready for a heavy day’s temple visiting the next day.
Traffic conditions in Bangkok have not improved over the past 25 years and, indeed, there still seem to be more taxis and tut tuts than people. However, the building of the sky train and the MRT has taken some pressure of the roads, even though this may not be immediately apparent. We took the sky train to the Chao Phraya river and from there we took a ferry to the Grand Palace where we also viewed the magnificent Emerald Buddha. The temples were incredible and the crowds were vast in their numbers. Maybe I am being cynical, but as there is due to be a massive anti-government political rally at the weekend, which could get violent, could the crowd be flocking to the temples while they still have a chance? Back to the hotel for a refreshing swim and then off to a fitting for our new clothes.

India Pacific return to Sydney

An early morning check in at Adelaide railway station where you await introduction to the staff before boarding. A small but compact compartment (see pic) with banquette seating which will convert into the sleeping bunks. Large picture window. A door leading to a miniscule ‘bathroom’ with a fold down steel toilet (Flush and lift slowly back into position). A fold down steel washbasin with hot and cold water – water runs away when you fold back into position and the piece de resistance is the shower with a curtain to stop everything else getting wet – on a train! Only one small hitch – the seating was back to engine which I hate. So yes folks I maintained my reputation and changed compartments to next door which fortunately was empty and faced the engine. Then off to the Lounge for a Welcome drink of bubbly and a quick round robin introduction to our fellow travellers (the train is divided up into sections and we were Gold Class A). Time for a brief chat and then into lunch.
In the afternoon people drifted off to snooze or finish unpacking in the neat cupboards before dis-embarking at Broken Hill for a short tour of this unusual silver mining city built on top of the mother lode. The stunning shock was a picture painted by a local man over 2 years – floor to ceiling, 180’ width, 10 tons of paint etc etc but fantastically good (see pic) with a 3 dimensional feeling – and it is stuck in a back room of his brother’s souvenir shop. Returning to the train it was time for dinner where we met a group of 9 Australians,(Gwen was available at a very young 77) friends for many years who periodically get together to go on holiday even though they do not all live in the same place any more. They kindly included us in the group and we learnt so much about where we were and what we were seeing. This was vital as what we should have seen was brown scrub land with few cattle or sheep. What we did see was green and in some places quite lush because of the rains! Rivers we passed were brown torrents and apparently the effects of this rain will last many months and mean that more cattle and sheep can be grazed on the land than has been possible for quite a few years.
Finally, to bed and David, ever the gentleman, took the top bunk – up the ladder. This meant that I had the window, and when the lights went out the moonscape was fantastical. Through the night I watched distant properties and we passed through small townships with a few street lights marking their boundaries. Occasionally we stopped at industrial areas but there were no names and no people evident. The best thing was the stunning night sky full of stars and no light pollution. In the morning they came at 6.30 with coffee so we could go to the lounge and watch the dawn coming up over the hills forming the start of the Blue Mountains. From then until the Sydney suburbs was spectacular scenery. Altogether a memorable trip.
After our interesting but probably less than restful night we thankfully checked into our hotel back on The Rocks and – went shopping! We had 3 days of leisurely exploring, with a wonderful Sunday spent with the ex-Chief Exec of Scottish & Newcastle and his lovely wife – Tony and Chris – who welcomed us into their home in Double Bay (see pic for view from house) and took us out to Rose Bay for lunch. We took full advantage of Sydney Harbour ferries which are brilliant, culminating in a trip on our last day to Manly Beach for a swim in the surf (see pic). We also did a wonderful tour of the Opera House. Oh yes, David says I should mention that I changed the hotel room 3 times which he feels is a record even for us.
PLEASE NOTE – we were not responsible for the flooding in Melbourne, which happened days after we had left.

Melbourne and the Great Ocean Drive

In Melbourne, we were grateful to two people – Rob our concierge at the Radisson hotel and Jeff our bus driver on the Phillip Island tour. Rob gave us the low down on the free city tour bus in Melbourne, but more importantly he told us about a restaurant called Max in Hardware Lane where we had a two course meal and a complimentary glass of wine for $27 per head. We also got talking to the owner, Andy, who bought us another glass of wine each. The restaurants in Hardware Lane also provided free music from jazz blues bands and bongo drums artists. The street was buzzing and great for people watching. A great night indeed. After a fairly mediocre tour of the city the next day, we headed for Phillip Island in the capable hands of Jeff, our Gray Line bus driver who came to Australia from the Isle of Wight 40 years ago on the £10 package and stayed. For those who know him, he talked and sounded a lot like Noel Overton. On the way back from Phillip Island, Jeff gave us some good detail on the next leg of the journey from Melbourne along the Great Ocean Road.
Phillip Island - a place we will never forget (see picture). Sorry Trish but we must have been there on a good day. First we visited Churchill Island and met a lady guide of the original settlement house who was bemoaning the fact that they cannot get William Morris wallpaper and fabrics. So I was happy to say I could send her some from my workroom for her patchwork group which was really nice. Then onto Cowes where a lovely lady (who left Malta when she was 4) kindly stitched my torn jeans on her machine while I hid behind a curtain and she wouldn’t let me pay. Finally onto The Penguin Parade. We had paid extra for the Sky Box view which takes 10 people plus the Head Ranger who is doing the nightly count. We were provided with strong binoculars to watch penguins approx 33 cm high trying to decide whether it was safe to come out of the water and cross the open sand to get to the dunes and their burrows. Out/in, out/in until they get the courage to cross a beach they cross every day at dusk. Some are in groups of 10/12 and others in groups of 80+ - waddle, waddle, flop and eventually they reach the safety of the dunes to socialise by bumping each other and preening. We sat outside later under the moon and could not tear ourselves away, eventually walking up the path beside them and waiting for them to cross the path ahead as they have right of way. Unforgettable.
We left Melbourne by crossing the magnificent Westgate Bridge, heading for Geelong and the surfing beaches at the beginning of the Great Ocean Road. We stopped at Urquhart’s Bluff, had a picnic lunch at Kennet River and headed towards the 12 Apostles (see picture) at Port Campbell. These examples of wind and sea erosion were marvellous but for anybody who knows the south coast of the UK from Hampshire to Cornwall, they are not that special (don’t tell any Aussies that). From Port Campbell to Mount Gambia (our next overnight stop) there was too much mileage without any real scenic reward. However, in Mount Gambia we took a moonlight walk in a sinkhole – which is actually a beautiful garden developed in a small volcanic crater. We saw some interesting caves at Nelson (Princess Margaret Rose caves) and Naracoort, loads of vineyards but not much opportunity for tasting around the Coonawarra region and it was a long hard slog to Adelaide.
Adelaide is a lovely city, very small and manageable with a nice feeling of space. We didn’t realise that Adelaide crams all of its culture into just a few weeks, with a fringe and concerts from, amongst others, AC/DC, Whitney Houston and Tom Jones, all of which we missed because we did not know about them previously. However, we went to the beach at Glenelg and even went into the sea (see picture). Now we have left Adelaide and are journeying to Sydney on the India Pacific train, which takes 24 hours and stops at Broken Hill for a tour of the Silver mine – more later.

Sydney and the Great Pacific Drive

Australia and Sydney and here we are on our balcony, in the most perfect position, (see pic) looking right at the Opera House with the Harbour Bridge to our left, close enough to see the people who have walked up ON TOP! Needless to say we walked on the Harbour Bridge path. Had a wonderful dinner with Eileen Macdonald and her husband Jeff in a restaurant on The Rocks guaranteed to give you a wonderful view of the Opera House at night, unless the cruise ship Arcadia is in town and moored beside you. Nonetheless, the food was very good, wine lovely and company excellent. On Wednesday morning we took a short tour of the city to get a flavour of the architecture and a feel of history. However, in the afternoon we went on the hop on/off bus of the ‘burbs and beaches and jumped off at Bondi Beach to watch the beautiful people soak up the sun and surf the waves – or dip their toes in. (see pic). Both during lunch and in the evening we wandered around the Rocks area which is buzzing. Saving Darling Harbour for when we return next week.
Thursday and it is time to start touring again. Took off down the Princes Highway planning to stop whenever we saw something interesting. Well, if we had done that we would have needed 3 weeks not 3 days to get to Melbourne. 1st stop Sublime Point above Wollongon (see pic) – only stopped because of the name but ended up having lunch at Panorama Restaurant with that view in front of us for $A38 for two with drinks and unlimited buffet. Decided we had to see more so switched to Great Pacific Highway to travel along the coast in and out of the little beach towns Bulli –Wollongon – Shellharbour – Kiama. Then at Gerringong looked down on 7 mile beach from where Kingsford Smith took off to fly from Aussie to NZ. Onto Shoalhaven, Nowra and could not resist Greenwell Point to sample fresh oysters from the oyster ‘farm’ in the clear water.(see pic) Finally to Bateman Bay where we ate dinner on the river front – and went back for Aussie pancakes for breakfast next day. Next day more of the same but this time stopped to see kangaroos feeding beside (and amongst) the caravans at Pambula beach (see pic). Stopped too often to see things and arrived at Lakes Entrance at 8pm. Immediately, went to have dinner – this was not a good move as the whole town stops at 8pm and the only places to eat were fast food or the old Central Hotel which didn’t look promising but turned out very friendly and good food. Looked like the Aussie ‘hotels’ from the 1950’s movies.
Saturday we left in 28C and a beautiful blue sky and drove into thunder, lightening, rain via Stratford on Avon (!), Sale etc . However, stopped in a tiny hamlet for lunch where we met the grandmother who cooks the wonderful pies we sampled. Weather improving to a grey 20C we finally have reached Melbourne and settled down for a couple of days hard sightseeing. More soon.

On the road again

Apologies to all of our followers for our leave of absence – this was caused by a week off in Blenheim and then problems with wifi access at our hotel in Sydney. We will follow this blog shortly with our first Australian experiences.
The week’s R&R with Debbie, Mark & family in Blenheim seemed to fly by and we are now back in Auckland preparing for the flight to Oz. We had a lovely time relaxing, but we still seemed to do a lot. We packed in the Marlborough wine festival where we met their friends Liz and Chris. The next day, we had breakfast at the Farmer’s Market and met another neighbour Ann and her husband Steve. We drove all the way across the top of South Island to Nelson to visit a pub with real draught beer part owned by a golfing buddy, Bill Dover and run by his brother Mic (see picture). We also had a lovely lunch at the Slip Inn in Havelock (the Green Mussel capital of the world) with Debbie and her mother-in-law Carol and the four of us also had a most enjoyable time visiting wineries and lunching. On Saturday, we played golf with Mark and his eldest son James (see picture), who appears naturally gifted at golf and playing heavy metal rock guitar. The dogs, Flecka and Harley, kept us amused all week and we really enjoyed the fresh produce from Debbie’s garden. The only slight downside, again, was the weather. It was such a shame that it rained on Debbie’s birthday, although it didn’t spoil the visit to LochMare, on the Charlotte Sound, which is absolutely beautiful. Now that we have moved on we are sure that Mark’s 50th birthday on March 12th will be blessed by gloriously hot weather. The only one of Debbie’s family that we did not really get to see much of was Will, who went off for a three day camp with his school - a sort of bonding exercise - and on his return he was dog tired, only staying up until the chocolate cake was ready.
Our return to North Island across the Cook Strait was relatively calm even though the wind was very strong and the next day, we took a spectacular 12 hour rail journey on the Overlander (see picture), from Wellington to Auckland. We saw amazing scenery (see picture) that would not have been possible to view were we driving. The gorges, the rivers, the volcanoes (still active) and the bridges with amazing spiral climbing rail track were certainly worth the trip. Coming back to both Wellington and Auckland, two cities that we had only recently visited for the first time, reinforced the pleasing memories we had of them and although we only had a few hours in each, we still had time for a walk around the harbours in both places and enjoyed the leisure time so evidently treasured by the Kiwis and their many visitors.
Impressions of New Zealand: beautiful country with fascinating things to see and do; wonderful food and most of all friendly people. Whether Kiwi bred or immigrant, generally they are so proud of their country and eager to share their experience with the visitor. We can only speak of the Northland (North Island) but the lasting impression is the winding and steeply climbing roads, stunning trees & Maori art whether in wood carving, weaving or tattoos! Oh yes – and the wine was quite good too! (see picture)

Go South young man (and woman)

Well, we have arrived in South Island and just in time for the Marlborough Wine Festival, would you believe it? The crossing from Wellington was a piece of cake; the sea was like glass and the scenery going through the Sound towards Picton was spectacular (see picture). Niece Debbie and her mother-in-law Carol met us off the ferry and by the time we reached Blenheim, James and Will were cycling home from school and Mark was driving home from work. We were enthusiastically greeted by the two dogs, Flecka and Harley and it was not too long before I joined Mark, James and Will in the swimming pool. It was a bit fresh but it felt good in the late afternoon sunshine.
The next day, Saturday, was the day of the wine festival and we thought our reputation as rainmakers had preceded us. The festival had never been rained off, but at 10.30 a.m. you would not have bet that this year might be the first. Debbie and Mark’s neighbour, Chris, even went off to get ponchos for us. However, these were not needed and Linda went to the wine festival with her poncho, umbrella but no sun hat (mistake). I have never seen so many wine producers in one place at the same time, I was in heaven. There were lots of people all having fun (see picture) and the day turned out to be very sunny – not because of all the wine we tasted. Apart from wine and food, there was music during the day and we stayed on until past 6 o’clock when Gin Wigmore performed and she was really worth waiting for (one of NZ’s most exciting new artists for years, with a US recording contract). We left the festival feeling very happy (see picture of me with Linda and Debbie).
On Sunday, after a leisurely breakfast at the farmer’s market, the whole family drove to White’s Beach, a nice sandy cove, where we went into the sea (a little cold), played a little beach cricket (me) and walked around the rocks (Linda). Today, we went with Debbie to the Slip Inn at Havelock for a lovely seafood lunch and a sweet tasting Sav (Sauvignon Blanc to you and me).
It’s lovely to be with the Debbie and her family for the first time in 18 months, to enjoy their company, see their superb home and to eat the fresh fruit and veges growing in their expansive garden. We are now preparing to send some clothes home in order to lighten the load in our suitcases before returning to Auckland for our next journey to Australia.

To the end of North Island

As we drove away from Napier, we were left with the view that nobody actually lived there, which would explain why the restaurants closed at 9 o’clock. We drove through the next town, Hastings, which was similarly built in Art Deco style, was bigger than Napier and seemed to have a ‘real life’ feel about it.
On the road South, on the map, we saw an advert for Yummy Mummies cheesecakes at Woodville. Well, you would expect us to stop and taste them, wouldn’t you? We did, and they were fabulous (tell Pete and Brian to come quick).

Our next overnight stop was Martinborough, a small sleepy wine town whose town square is designed to reflect the Union Jack and where we found a lovely bed & breakfast hosted by David & Lorraine Murray. We drove to the very southern tip of North Island at Cape Palliser, where it was amazing to see around 60 or so brown fur seals (see picture) in their natural habitat, swimming in the sea and lazing on the rocks in the sun. This was very wild country with cliffs coming down to the sea, roads only partially sealed and hugging the coastline. We came across a 9 hole golf course, which had electric fences around the greens (just like Brora), but the greens were very rough (see picture) even though the club employed someone to cut the greens (?).
Before we left Martinborough, we had enough time to visit the golf course (see picture - note vineyards at the rear) (we will be arranging a golf tour, but beware Wednesday is Ladies day – suggest wine tour alternative) and tested the Palliser winerie before moving on to Wellington, where we chatted with the manager, Narida, who will be coming to the UK in June and we hope to see her again.

We were able to put some extra detail to the Palliser name for their brochure. Admiral Palliser was Lord of the Admiralty and was responsible for sending Captain James Cook on his journeys. We also pointed out that there is a monument to Captain Cook in the grounds of the Vache, a large house in Chalfont St Giles, which was formerly owned by Admiral Palliser.
The road to Wellington was very twisty as it went across another mountain range (as high as Ben Nevis). In Wellington, we found a lovely hotel located right on the bay with splendid views. However, the weather in Wellington was dull, with lots of low cloud so the views were not always viewable (shades of Ireland – Jim). Nevertheless, we found some good nightlife and can recommend the Hummingbird restaurant and Sweet Mother's Kitchen. Today, we did a half day tour, rode the cable car (see picture) and Linda bought 3 more pairs of shoes – yes, that’s right 3 pairs!! That makes a total of 6 pairs this trip and we are not even half way yet! We will have to send more stuff home when we get to Blenheim.

From Rotorua to Napier

Its the evening of Thurs 4th and more culture with an excellent Maori traditional meal cooked in the ground (hangi) with show and then a walk through the forest to see the kiwis (hiding in the bushes not like the big Kiwis kicking rugby balls everywhere). Friday - more Maori culture but this time to see carving and weaving schools and geysers etc. Weather wonderful! Saturday almost cultured out but a visit to Wai-O-Tapu (see picture and try to spot Linda) on the road to Taupo was stunning with the geyser, mud pools and many coloured landscape. Then a quick stop at Haku Falls (see picture) to see the georgeous blue waterfall – would love to have had the time to go upstream in a jet boat but onward to Taupo – a lake that thinks its a sea its so big. We had a lovely visit with Nicola, Steve and Taz and we all went out for dinner. So weird to think we haven’t see them for more than 10 years. Great to hear their interpretation of life in NZ and meet their gorgeous daughter.
From Taupo to Napier we drove over the mountain plateau on a road that was closed by mud slides only a week ago (and is the longest road in NZ between petrol stations which we only discovered once we were on it! A little warning would have been good but we were ok just breathing fast by the time we reached the gas station.) As we are not staying here very long we have had to work hard at the tourist bit so checked into a motel (fawlty towers by the sea/don’t ask) and set off to Cape Kidnappers for a tractor (yes tractor) ride 9 km along the beach at low tide (see picture) to climb a very high cliff to see (and smell - just like a chicken farm) a gannet colony (see picture). Great experience if a little damp around the toes when we got stuck in the soft sand and it was everybody off while the driver did his drag racing exhibition to pull the trailer clear. Back in town by 9 pm, hungry and a little cold only to discover this town closes early!! Eventually found an excellent Asian restaurant which stayed open extra late – till 9.30pm!
Have you heard the one about the Maori chief, taken to the UK to be shown off in 1851; he was taken to St Andrews and shown this crazy game of golf? He loved it, played it well and came home and built a beautiful golf course at Napier.
Well, its 5pm on Monday, and we have discovered Napier is a magical town – rebuilt after an earthquake in 1931 in the art deco style. Natalie would love it here – all the buildings and some of the guides are exactly as they would have been in 1930/1940. To finish off the Hawkes Bay experience we realised we needed to have some NZ wine so we have been on a wine tour. David is recovering in the spa pool in our room!! (no pictures)

Where every day is a New (Zealand) experience

We encountered more bad weather on our drive to the Coromandel Peninsular and so we didn’t stay at Whitianga as planned, a decision confirmed when the tourist office advised it was too rough for the boats to go out. So we drove south, for an overnight stop at Tauranga and then on to Rotorua. Originally, we had only planned to stay 2 nights in Rotorua, but we are staying 4 nights because this place is so special.
On our journey between Tauranga and Rotorua, we stopped off at Matamata, where the Hobbiton part of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed. This was really Hollywood New Zealand style as the local scenery was turned into Hobbit homes cut into the hills (see picture) with bridges made from polystyrene. The tour also included a sheep shearing demonstration and a lamb feeding opportunity (see picture).
At Rotorua, we found superb accommodation in a small cottage and we immersed ourselves in the local volcanic culture by visiting a buried village (from the earthquake in 1886) and a visit to the Polynesian Spa where we both had wonderfully relaxing massages as well as bathing in the geo-thermal pools (temperatures ranging from 36C to 42C) (see picture). We also had an adventure eating out last night at a ’Stone Grill’ restaurant where you cook your food on a volcanic granite slab heated to 400C (see picture and note Linda’s new hair style). More Maori culture to follow.