Last stop Dubai

Well, here we are, 67 days after we started and packing for the trip home tomorrow. Dubai has been interesting – make of that comment what you will. Our hotel, the Qamardeen situated in the old town, has been very comfortable and we have enjoyed the lovely warm swimming pool and the friendliness of the staff. The old town is actually very new (only a few months old), but it is close to the Burj Al Khalifa – the highest building in Dubai, if not the world, where the musical fountains in the lake surrounding the area even outdo those at the Bellagio in Las Vegas (see pic). We have done things that locals don’t do – we have walked! We visited the Souk Al Bahar (also very new) as well as the Dubai Mall, which has an ice rink and an aquarium inside. However, we did not visit the Emirates Mall, which has a ski slope inside. Sue and John Brown’s daughter, Nicola (Nooze to those that know her), gave us a lovely tour around Dubai, showing us the real old town of Dubai built around the creek (see pic) and then she took us to the new Dubai, out to the Palm development and the Atlantis hotel. It is amazing what can be built given the resources (people and money), but Dubai still largely resembles a building site - a large part of which is on standstill due to the need to focus on the main projects (Metro) and the continuing impact of the financial recession.
Today has been our most hectic day. We began by teeing off on the Ernie Els golf course (see pic) in Sports City, just before 8 o’clock. We were due to tee off at 7.30, but our taxi driver could not find the golf course, it is so new. The golf course reminded us of Alicante- anyone who was on the Brian Slocombe trip to Spain a few years back will know what we mean (think building sites and half completed houses surrounding the fairways). I played well and I am looking forward to helping the Club beat the Seniors (again) this coming Saturday.
From the outskirts of Dubai, we returned to the DIFC (Financial City which reminded us of a very large and opulent Canary Wharf) for lunch with a former colleague at Barclays, Khurram Jaffree. It was good to see him again, but, it was not long before we returned to the pool at our hotel for last minute tanning opportunities.
We have just returned from a lovely meal with Nooze and her husband, Mark (see pic) at Madinat in Jumeirah. Madinat is a combination of Souk, hotels and restaurants by a waterway where tourists can be conveyed by Abra (small ferries, similar to those on the creek). Such a wonderful evening. We ate Persian food and chatted under starlit skies. When may we do this in England? Maybe it will be a barbecue summer this year!
This is our last blog for this journey. It’s been a fabulous trip with many highs, many bonuses and only a few lows, mainly weather related. We would like to thank all of our faithful followers and all of you who checked in once in a while to see how we were doing. We look forward to catching up with you all very soon to share our stories and maybe even bore you with some of our pictures that didn’t make any of the blogs.
So, this is David and Linda signing off. We are due to arrive in the UK on Thursday 25th, British Airways willing.

Chinese Hong Kong

What a relief to fly into Hong Kong without the risk of collecting washing from the lines close to the aircraft wings which was the old airport approach. Now the drive from Lantau Island across to Kowloon and over the bridge to Hong Kong Island gives you a brief moment to appreciate the changes – this is Hong Kong 2010 and the proliferation of skyscrapers (see pic) always amazing is now stunning.
The competition for space is fierce but nothing is going to be built on the race track and that is where we headed on the first night. Happy Valley Race Course (see pic) is run by the H.K. Jockey Club as strictly as anything in the UK. We were welcomed as visitors and bought a ‘dinner ticket’ which gave us a table off the balcony and buffet dinner. Our luck for the evening was in our table company – real racing characters, one with excellent English, who showed us the ropes and was then really impressed when David turned HK$10 into HK$54 on the 1st race. On the other side were an Irishman and a Frenchman (wait for the joke) in H.K. to help rich Chinese Hong Kongers build a wine cellar! A great evening – win a little and don’t lose too much!
Next day we took the MTR to – Disneyland and from the parade (see pic) to the fireworks it was brilliant. The Chinese love children and have no problem (unlike the French at EuroDisney) in wishing you ‘Have a nice day’.
Friday it was a bus ride to Stanley Market, different routes there and back so we could see more of the other side of H.K. and its’ fabulous beaches. But we have realised that some of the things that were popular but not over touristy 25 years ago have possibly passed their best so we will not spoil the memory and go back but do things we have not done before.
That decision sent us to Macao. An hours’ ferry ride across the China Sea and into the delta of the Pearl River and a completely different China. The Portuguese influence is very visible in the architecture and the colours and more of the old streets have survived. We took a half day bus tour round the old city which enabled David to cement Anglo/Chinese relations (see pic) and out to see the incredible vast casinos being built by the Las Vegas owners. Having stopped to watch a wonderful Chinese Dragon dance, wondered through the old quarter and tasted the delicious Portuguese almond one bite cakes we didn’t feel the need to visit the MGM Grand or the Venetian having seen them in Vegas.
Our only regret was that we didn’t have time for a wander around Kowloon where memory says the best eating street is - but it is good to save something for next time.

Our last few days in Thailand

The pressure we felt from the political unrest in Thailand grew, imperceptibly at first, as we left Bangkok for Chiang Mai, but became stronger the nearer our departure date for Hong Kong less than a week later.
As we took the train from Bangkok on Friday, we knew that the Red Shirts (anti-government supporters of ousted premier Taksin Shinawatra) would be arriving that day and we were glad to be going to Chiang Mai. The target for the Red Shirts was the overthrow of the government and, somewhat naively, we hoped it would be over when we returned on Tuesday. Our initial two days at the Prince Khum Phaya Resort in Chiang Mai were blissful. There were hardly any other guests and so we received royal service from all of the staff. When we were not touring around northern Thailand, we took advantage of the resort’s excellent facilities. The arrival of the Korean film crew invaded our privacy a little, but they were a friendly crowd of people. When we returned from our trip to the far north, though, there was a distinct change of atmosphere. Senior military officials had arrived and senior ‘suits’ were in evidence, accompanied by their bodyguards. The next day, at breakfast, a hoard of people in ‘pink shirts’ (pro-government supporters) had arrived and the military and ‘suits’ were engaged in meetings, closely watched by their bodyguards. We were keenly scanning newspapers and television news bulletins for updated news on the political situation and what little we were seeing was unsettling, with the Red Shirts making ultimatums and vowing to spill their own blood in front of government offices in Bangkok.
Our return to Bangkok was not helped by the fact that having boarded the plane, it was then taken out of service and the flight was cancelled. This caused mayhem at the airport as passengers tried to change their flights. Because we had booked business class though after some uncertainty we were able to get on the next flight.
Back in Bangkok, we saw truck loads of army personnel accompanied with riot gear on the freeway back into town and there was a general feeling that the red shirts would not stand down, leaving the situation to escalate. The next morning, we took an early taxi to the airport. A previous demonstration had led to airports being closed. However, our flight left on time and we arrived safely in Hong Kong by mid afternoon.
There are no photographs to accompany this blog – none can adequately capture our mood. We left Bangkok in sadness. Sadness for a wonderful city and wonderful country that is in the midst of turmoil, which is unlikely to be resolved any time soon. Sadness, too, in the fact that Thailand’s plight goes virtually unnoticed in the UK and in Western press generally. But grateful that we had left as the area of our hotel was closed to traffic that afternoon as the Red Shirts did indeed invade the main road by our hotel.

Touring Northern Thailand

Elephants – Thai dancing -Mekong River – Laos – Burma okay so we must be good tourists and tear ourselves away from too much relaxing – elephants here we come. First impression, they are BIG. I know that is obvious but even the little ones are BIG and playful, gentle, clever and patient. It is the first time I have ridden an animal and not felt sorry for it only for us when the Mahout (driver/trainer/controller) got off on the middle of a jungle path to walk ahead and take photos of us alone on top of this giant animal! (see pic). That evening having reduced the reception staff to helpless laughter at the pictures of us on the elephant we went next door to a fabulous complex of dining/show rooms to the ‘cultural show’. Always a worry that it will be for the tourists this was laid to rest by the fact that a large contingent of Thai university students were there on their final fling before the holidays. We joined another English couple staying in our hotel which was very pleasant. An excellent evening of interesting food and traditional and modern dance & music show culminating in the traditional ‘get the audience on its feet’ section. David doing Thai dancing was a real treat (see pic) – is this the prelude to ballroom dance classes?
Next morning another earlyish start taking care we did not interfere with the Korean Television crew starting filming in the hotel grounds for a soap/reality TV show. First stop the Hot Springs, seriously underwhelming after New Zealand but they tried. However, the 2nd stop was very special. A pure white temple, whose first building was completed in 1996 by a famous Thai artist and his contemporaries and whose internal murals are still being painted depicting heaven – traditional Thai – and hell. 9/11, exploding bombs, spider man, etc.etc. Very thought provoking. Then through Chiang Rai to the MeKong river and the 3 borders of Thailand, Laos and Burma (Myanmar). As we stood on the banks of the river the appalling pollution caused by land burning was really evident as visibility was so poor. We took a longtail boat to see the casino (from the river) which Burma has built on the banks to tempt Thai people to go and spend their money. Then across to Laos, where we landed. A loose term to describe a bridge made of split bamboo and loose planks where the ‘railing’ switches from side to side at whim (see pic). Having safely negotiated this, you arrive at a very small market selling all the goods you see being sold around the world but which are made here! Back across the river for a Buffet lunch (emphasis please on the ‘t’) which was very good. Finally we reached the Thai/Burma border crossing which was fascinating when you consider the bad publicity in the West about Burma and here are both lots of people crossing backward and forward to shop and trade. For 500 Baht we could have gone into Burma but no-one fancied it. Every time there is a flare up of trouble in Burma the crossing closes but the children still swim in the river which is the border. A long drive back only stopping for ‘pee-pee’ stops or buy fresh pineapple from a road side stall which was the sweetest we had ever tasted.

North to Chiang Mai

Early start , with backpacks only, we took local transport to the main station to get our train to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Remembering to stand up at 08.00 when the National Anthem was played and everything stops, we boarded the train and found our airline style seats in the ‘luxury’ of the 2nd class air condition carriage. The next 12 hours were amazing. The country around Bangkok is incredibly flat and arable but anywhere there is a tall hill there is a golden Buddha , up high and tall enough to be seen for miles around. The variety of buildings – shanty to luxurious - seems to bear no relation to the wealth of the inhabitants since even the shantys have satellites and good quality cars and new motor bikes. Everywhere are the little stalls selling food and everything is clean. At Bangkok station the stall holders wash their dishes in the middle of the train tracks using the hose pipes there to wash the trains!! (see pic)
No tale we tell can avoid food and this is no exception. 2 hours into the journey and the first ‘service’ arrived, cold or hot drinks and a light sticky bun with jello inside. No conversation/no requests. 2 hours later more food – primitive airline container with delicious spicy chicken and rice – eat don’t ask was our motto having established it was at least chicken. The final offering was a feather light muffin style cake tasting of vanilla bean and custard(?). No money changed hands – it was all included. Ryanair take note. The landscape slowly changed through the 12 hour journey and the final couple of hours were through tropical light forest high hill regions. The amount of land burning throughout the journey was a shock and it was easy to see why the air quality is so poor and visibility can be severely affected.
However, finally we arrived at a station with no signs in English (it was Chiang Mai) and got conned into getting into a tut tut (having told us all taxis were tut tuts which was not true!) . Off we went to the wrong hotel and as we refused to get out the driver had to go into the hotel and use their computer to find our hotel. Eventually we arrived – at The Prince Khum Phaya Resort & Spa known to us as Shangri La. We ended up feeling sorry for the driver because the property is so new. The pool is the length of the accommodation area but shaped under bridges, around waterfalls etc etc and we have to step down from our patio to get in. (see pics). As I sit here on the patio in my swimsuit the sun is dipping behind the lana style roofs opposite with a temperature around 30C. Sorry folks!

Feeling the heat in Thailand

We left Sydney on a perfect day of clear blue skies and 29C temperature and flew to Bangkok. We arrived around 10.30 at night. It was 31C - Bangkok smelled hot and humid. After a good night sleep and a refreshing shower, we looked out of the window of our 15th floor room, yes it was raining but the skies also suggested Bangkok suffered from a mild smog. We were last in Bangkok on our honeymoon 25 years ago, but we did not really walk the streets then. This time we did and I felt that we were seeing something of the real Bangkok.
Our first mission was to shop! I must admit to succumbing to some Fluff tendencies – I wanted to shop! Linda wanted to have some clothes made and our concierge recommended us to a tailor in the most expensive district of Bangkok, but after the intervention of two separate Bangkok women (one a lawyer and the other who recognised us from our hotel), we were off by Tut Tut (see picture) to Brioni where we chose our material, selected our designs and were measured for our shirts and skirts (hers not mine). We followed this up by walking in considerable heat around workshops and market stalls to a large mall, the MBK where we were to have lunch in a Thai Food Centre (see picture). After initial confusion we became familiar with the system and chose our food – don’t ask me, I haven’t a clue what I selected, but it was hot spicy and extremely delicious- and cost less than £4 including drinks and a fresh mango dessert..
Back to the hotel, we had a swim in the pool and then got ready for our evening out with Jim and Judy’s son Richard and his girlfriend, Halomi. They took us to their favourite restaurant and it was quite different to be eating at tables on a glass floor where fish swam underneath – Linda did really well - she did not even need her travel bands. The food was delicious and the conversation went into the night. We only left when the restaurant turned the lights out. Although the restaurant had closed, Bangkok was still open on its night time shift and showed no signs of closing up. But we went back to our hotel, we had to get ready for a heavy day’s temple visiting the next day.
Traffic conditions in Bangkok have not improved over the past 25 years and, indeed, there still seem to be more taxis and tut tuts than people. However, the building of the sky train and the MRT has taken some pressure of the roads, even though this may not be immediately apparent. We took the sky train to the Chao Phraya river and from there we took a ferry to the Grand Palace where we also viewed the magnificent Emerald Buddha. The temples were incredible and the crowds were vast in their numbers. Maybe I am being cynical, but as there is due to be a massive anti-government political rally at the weekend, which could get violent, could the crowd be flocking to the temples while they still have a chance? Back to the hotel for a refreshing swim and then off to a fitting for our new clothes.

India Pacific return to Sydney

An early morning check in at Adelaide railway station where you await introduction to the staff before boarding. A small but compact compartment (see pic) with banquette seating which will convert into the sleeping bunks. Large picture window. A door leading to a miniscule ‘bathroom’ with a fold down steel toilet (Flush and lift slowly back into position). A fold down steel washbasin with hot and cold water – water runs away when you fold back into position and the piece de resistance is the shower with a curtain to stop everything else getting wet – on a train! Only one small hitch – the seating was back to engine which I hate. So yes folks I maintained my reputation and changed compartments to next door which fortunately was empty and faced the engine. Then off to the Lounge for a Welcome drink of bubbly and a quick round robin introduction to our fellow travellers (the train is divided up into sections and we were Gold Class A). Time for a brief chat and then into lunch.
In the afternoon people drifted off to snooze or finish unpacking in the neat cupboards before dis-embarking at Broken Hill for a short tour of this unusual silver mining city built on top of the mother lode. The stunning shock was a picture painted by a local man over 2 years – floor to ceiling, 180’ width, 10 tons of paint etc etc but fantastically good (see pic) with a 3 dimensional feeling – and it is stuck in a back room of his brother’s souvenir shop. Returning to the train it was time for dinner where we met a group of 9 Australians,(Gwen was available at a very young 77) friends for many years who periodically get together to go on holiday even though they do not all live in the same place any more. They kindly included us in the group and we learnt so much about where we were and what we were seeing. This was vital as what we should have seen was brown scrub land with few cattle or sheep. What we did see was green and in some places quite lush because of the rains! Rivers we passed were brown torrents and apparently the effects of this rain will last many months and mean that more cattle and sheep can be grazed on the land than has been possible for quite a few years.
Finally, to bed and David, ever the gentleman, took the top bunk – up the ladder. This meant that I had the window, and when the lights went out the moonscape was fantastical. Through the night I watched distant properties and we passed through small townships with a few street lights marking their boundaries. Occasionally we stopped at industrial areas but there were no names and no people evident. The best thing was the stunning night sky full of stars and no light pollution. In the morning they came at 6.30 with coffee so we could go to the lounge and watch the dawn coming up over the hills forming the start of the Blue Mountains. From then until the Sydney suburbs was spectacular scenery. Altogether a memorable trip.
After our interesting but probably less than restful night we thankfully checked into our hotel back on The Rocks and – went shopping! We had 3 days of leisurely exploring, with a wonderful Sunday spent with the ex-Chief Exec of Scottish & Newcastle and his lovely wife – Tony and Chris – who welcomed us into their home in Double Bay (see pic for view from house) and took us out to Rose Bay for lunch. We took full advantage of Sydney Harbour ferries which are brilliant, culminating in a trip on our last day to Manly Beach for a swim in the surf (see pic). We also did a wonderful tour of the Opera House. Oh yes, David says I should mention that I changed the hotel room 3 times which he feels is a record even for us.
PLEASE NOTE – we were not responsible for the flooding in Melbourne, which happened days after we had left.